Story Of A
Building, A History Of A City.
Celebrating a great building, which might be ..
Breathing
It's Last!
by Youcef Marzooq Youcef

Introduction
In every city in this world, there's a building, a monument, an architectural
landmark or something, that would be considered as a symbol to the
whole city, the image of this monument would be glued in the hearts and
minds of the people, as an image for the city itself… I'm
talking about buildings like the Eiffel tower and the city of Paris, Rome
and the Colosseum, Sidney and the opera building,
New York and the statue of liberty, and so forth.. it seems like people
tend to link between a city and one of it's milestones, and this rule
includes us here in Ajdabiya too, I mean, at the end of the day we are
humans too.. right !?
From this regard, most of the sources agreed
that both the Fatimid palace in Ajdabiya, and the colonial building known
to locals as (Al-Motsarfiya) are the symbol of this city. And at this
point one might ask: O.K but what the heck is the reason for this boring
lecture..!?
Well, the reason is that, Al- motsarfiya
building- symbol of our city- is in danger… in a great danger to its very
existence… so.. are you interested !?
If the answer is Yes, then you can read on this report in which we covered
this story from all aspects and sources concerning it
At first, what's exactly this danger..?
Actually, there are many dangers and not only
one! The first one is the belief some people have here, that the building
was built by the" Ancient Era" ( the official name for the Libyan Kingdom
after Colonel Qadhafi's revolution 1969 ).. so they think the building as
a symbol for the royal era, must be destructed ..!
But thank God, this gnus though, built on a very false historical
information , convinced nobody.
But is Al-motsarfiya, a royal building, belongs to the " ancient era" for
real ..? .. that's exactly what we going to answer after finishing the
list of the many dangers threatening the symbol of our city..
The second danger, is the ( restoration) works that have been started for
long months ago, and stopped after they removed the protecting cement
layer from the whole building. Leaving it
Without any cover and the winter is about to come. Which carry a big
danger to the building… and leaving the antique stones of the building In
the face of the storm (
literally).
Third one is, the fact that the building have
been divided, depending on whom is using a particular part of it! Many
public departments use the building, by taking parts or rooms of it as
headquarters and offices, and periodically these public offices go under a
( restoration) process! Separately!! Which means every public department
would make some restorations to the part they are using from the building,
without any kind of harmonization nor coordination with each other!!
Besides, these( restoration) caused a great
deal of deformation to the original design of the building, by joining
rooms to each other to make bigger offices, transform other rooms to
bathrooms and other facilities…they haven't been designed for in the
original design.
Not to mention that the annoying fact that there are no one official
department bear the responsibility of the building, puts it – the building
- in a serious danger.
So, what about allegations relating
between the building and the royal era in Libya?
Well, simply this is a lie. Or if we want to think about these allegations
in good intentions .. we would say it's built on a pure ignorance for the
simplest historic facts!
The royal era in Libya began in the year 1951. this is an undisputable
fact. So logically talking .. if someone approved the building was
actually built way before this date(1951) eventually would be the end of
the debate on this allegation. I suppose we are all agree on this point,
Hence, let me present to you some of these naked proofs…
The German newspaper of "
Die Wehrmacht " published in 1941 the picture (down) with a caption
saying:"
After the "Deutsches Afrikakorps" had its first contact with
the enemy at EL Aghila, the great German Italian advance along the Libyan
coast began. Ajdabiya was the first bigger city, which could have been
captured from the British Units.".
but the caption is not what matters to us here as mush as the
picture does. And why dose this picture mattes so much ? Well, there are
many reasons for that..

First, it approves the building is Italian, because it existed before the
royal era.
Also, by this picture and the date it was published in, make it more
possible to us to estimate more accurately, the date the building of
Almotsarfiya was built.
It also focus the estimation on a certain period of time, and this period
obviously, doesn't include the decade of The Forties of the last century.
So it leaves us to say that it was probably built between the Italian
occupation for Ajdabiya, and the year of 1939.
Historic sources tell us the Italian occupation for Ajdabiya, was in
14/3/1914. but it lasted only for one year, because they had to withdraw
in the year 1915, as a result for their defeat at Alqurdabiya battle with
the forces of Libyan resistance, and the mass uprising against them in
Tripoli.(1)
And they couldn't been able to return to Ajdabiya before the year 1923,
when they would occupy the city for the second time, and this was under
the command of General Latini.(2)
So, obviously this leave us with a very specific period of time, and that
would be between the year 1923 and 1939. and some assume it's more
probably was built after the year 1931, after the hanging of Omar Mukhtar,
the leader of Libyan resistance. And they arguing that the Italians
started to build schools and establishment widely after this date which
was practically the end of the Libyan armed resistance. But a picture was
revealed recently, published here for the first time puts literally the
end of this debate, Details in the following paragraph.
The End of this debate, Our Over-kill
proof!
Thanks to my friend
Miftah Al-Moghrbi, who brought this picture
(down) to me to
use it in this report, after he has read the Arabic version of the report
in this website that was published in November 15 2005, He also took a
printed copy of the report and handed it to the local weekly newspaper to
be published, I agreed after two weeks of hard thinking, for obvious
reasons!

You can see all four pictures in the
section of
The Secret Garden/Rare & old pics,
Anyway, what was I saying?! Yes Over-kill proof..
See, this picture is one of four pictures for Ajdabiya in the year 1935,
my friend Miftah, got it from the department of monuments, here in
Ajdabiya, they were originally have been found at the museum of the Libyan
city of Cyrene.
The picture needs no comment, it says it all; Al-Motsarfiya
did really
existed way before royal era, and we have this picture to approve it!
So, I assume the vision is crystal clear now to everybody about the fact
that Almotsarfiya, is an Italian building. And it's not something needs to
be approved, because it was built on the Colonial style, besides .. we
found Italian writing (the picture down) on the piece of decoration which
marks the building, right at it's top. Although it wasn't clear to read it
all, but clear enough to know that it's Italian, maybe you can read one
word ( Modena) which's the name of an Italian city. Maybe it was the
birthplace of one of the guards who carved it on the wall in a moment of
nostalgia to his hometown.

And ( the picture down) is the second important historic document,
Ajdabiya Online got it exclusively from a German book titled"
The March
And Fight Of Africa German Corps".Published in 1943, and was
distributed as a souvenir for the Africa German Corps Members in World War
II.Was scanned and sent to us by colleague Kuno Gross from Switzerland,
along with the first picture above.


The English translation for this page goes like this:
" Ajdabiya…Now the tide had
turned in Cyrenaique. Ajdabiya is counting 6019 Inhabitants in peace time. Out of those are 118
Europeans and 54 Jews. The City is an important centre of traffic. Roads
are going from here to the inner desert, especially Kufra.Under the rule
of the Fatimids, Ajdabiya was an important trading place, especially it is
assumed that it was located directly at the seashore that time.After the
city had surrendered to General Latini it became -at 16. Mai 1914,
following to concluded contracts the centre of the religious and political
important Head of the sect of the Senussi.Since the Senussi were open
aggressive against the Italians, the sect Has been forbidden in 1923."
This picture is published
Exclusively for the first time on the
internet, for the World War II German cemetery in Ajdabiya. The picture
was taken in the year 1941. and it was scanned and sent to us by
Kuno Gross. Later the cemetery was evacuated by the German Embassy
in Libya, because the area around it became very crowded residential
place at the Seventies.

Same picture
above November 2005.
Another
historic document, Ajdabiya Online got it exclusively, approves the
strategic importance for Ajdabiya for the Italian occupation at that time,
It's a commemorative medal, was made for a very special occasion… the
royal visit to Ajdabiya April 26 1933 by the king of Italy Vittorio
Emanvele. III… as the writing on the medal says: ( Visita Reali, Agedabia, 26 Aprile1933 XI ).


Anyway, and regardless of these facts and more others, it was very
noticeable, what my friend Kuno Gross had to say about this. When he told
me that the consecutive governments in Germany had kept all the Nazi
monuments and archives, including the famous concentration camps and the
gas chambers which have been used by Hitler in the holocaust against
Jews.To be as eye-witnesses on a very important phase in the history of
the German nation for the generations to come… I mean, we too, could use
these historic sites -whether they were Italians or not- as examples and
lessons from history…at least.
Note:
there was a simple decorative addition to the building in the royal era.
When the balcony facing alkfura street was added later. As shown in
the picture (down).

Unique Features
1- Secret Security Exits.
Because the building was originally built to be the headquarter for the
Italian military governor in Ajdabiya, back in the Italian occupation era,
the Architect was very aware of that, which reflected in the secret exits
that have been discovered not long ago.
For example - and according to what the oldest employee in the building
had told me - there's supposedly in the room ( picture down) a secret
underground tunnel leads to the outskirts of the city, specifically to Al
henaiya region. And he added that a group of foreign archaeologists who
visited Ajdabiya in the last couple of years or so, had visited the
building , discovered the tunnel, and walked in it for some
distance…before they had to get out due to the bad conditioning and
breathing problems underground… still, according to what the employee had
told me, and although I haven't seen the tunnel myself, because the room
was locked, yet I strongly tend to believe his story.

What I have seen and taken pictures for from these secret
fortifications, was the crypt at the top of the building, this crypt is
about 12 meters long, 6 meters wide, and one can only enter it crawling.
It has 2 exits which were well locked and hided, as you can see from ( the
picture down) it has been discovered not long time ago. It also has one
secret ladder at least, goes down to the building.
Most likely the crypt was built as a place for the guards to hide in or
something like that, both the tunnel and the crypt were used as alarm
exits in case the building was under attack ( we are talking about the
time of the occupation era, when attacks by Libyan resistance were just a
daily routine for the Italians).


Veneration
And Grandeur
As you can clearly notice from the picture (down), there was no garden
separating the internal Tripoli street and the entrance of the building.
In fact, the street was ending right at the main entrance of the building.
And if you stood in the balcony or at the top of the building facing the
street of Tripoli, you would be haunted by a strange, striking feeling …
like you are in the center of the event…actually you would feel you are
the event! And the garden which was built in the Seventies, played a
leading role to neutralize the building on the main scene of the city.

But, anyone
had the chance to stand on the building from the point facing Tripoli
street like in the picture (down) would still clearly, feels the
veneration and the very striking grandeur.(actually I almost shouted: I'M
THE KING OF THE WORLD!.. Yes,
it's that striking!).

Who's
using and residing in the building now? And to whom it belongs?
This
building, transformed to be used as offices both public and private
offices, I couldn't actually count all the offices and to whom it belongs!
You find offices for departments like (restaurants and bakery ) to offices
of Alzahf Elakhdhar Newspaper (The Green March) - which is by the way, not
distributed here in Ajdabiya, neither do the other official daily
newspapers That are all published in Tripoli or Benghazi.
And when I asked the oldest employee in the building, who have been in his
job since 1970, about if the departments using the building as offices pay
any kind of rent or payments ? He told me that there are no payments at
all, and that the building belongs to the Libyan state, embodied by the
department of public welfare, which's the only authority who can decide
whom can take offices in the building.

The upper
floor of the building is occupied by the Trade & Economy Committee , for
the Ajdabiya region ( Sha'abiya).
And the department of Public Environment Care. (Yes! Apparently we have a
Public Environment Care!! Cause on the ground on Ajdabiya there are no one
single sign that such a department has ever
existed.
What
about the new restoration process, Which have been stopped for many months
now?!
Our searches to find out who was behind the decision of removing
the protecting cement layer from the building, all have led us to one
place; The Trade & Economy Department, Ajdabiya region.
And here are some of the information we got about this topic:
First, we have been told that, the building wasn't supposed to be a
headquarter for the Trade & Economy Department, and that the plan was to
move to another new building located near to the
Fallujah mosque,
But this didn't happened because the second building has been taken by
another public department.
So, the Trade & Economy Department, asked for some restorations to be done
at Al-Motsarfiya, in order to be their headquarter. And the T.E.D
contacted the local authorities ( Al sha'abiya. EI, Mayor) on March 16
2005,
Then the Mayor's office agreed, sending an engineer from the Public
Projects department, to make a report on the restorations needed in the
building. The engineer finished the report and handed it to the mayor's
office , which agrees and sign a contract with a local company named (Al
ahali Co.) to take all the restoration works in the building.



As for the kind of these restoration works, we have been told that the building
is not suffering from leaking roofs or anything like that, and that all it
needs is just some decorative restorations, and that these restorations
must respect the historical personality of the building… on this regard we
heard that there have been a suggestion from a high local public figure in
the former Sha'abiya, to exchange the removed outer cement layer of the
building with a layer made from marble (!!!), but this suggestion was
strictly refused by the Trade & Economy Department, because it'll change
the original personality of the building.
And when we asked why, the restoration works have been stopped for
many months now after removing the outer protecting cement layer, while
winter is at the doors, We have been told that there were some problems
concerning the regional elections (3) , and the delay that occurred in
that process . and when finally there were newly elected members, at the
local authority positions
(4), First thing they did, is canceling all
contracts signed by the former members! And yes, the contract of Al-Motsarfiya,
has also been cancelled. And we have been told that contacts are being
made with the Sha'abiya officials to exclude the Al-Motsarfiya contract
from the cancelled ones.
As for the
material that will be used to make the new protecting cement layer, we
have been told that the material will be a normal cement.
After I saw the part used by the Trade & Economy Department , I can
confirm that the state of the building is very good, looking in a good
conditions from the inside, except maybe some stains in the interior
walls, because of the very old painting.
The Military Unit.
There's a Libyan army unit, using the backside of the building, as a
headquarters, its gate on Al-Nasr St.
And, we have noticed from the outside, that there are three big holes in
the historical wall of the building. These holes as big as three doors,
And it has been said that the military unit has made these supposed doors
to use them as shops, on Al-Nasr St. known with its booming commercial
activity.
We also knew, that the military unit has cancelled its commercial project,
mentioned above, but we noticed that the three doors are still there!
Conclusion
Without any unneeded lecturing and stuff, this building can't be used as a
headquarter or offices from any kind. It also appears that the former
restoration works to the building that took place in the last few years,
wasn't organized or in tune with each other in one vision. What happened
is that every part of the building have been put under (restorations)
separately, which's very strange and odd enough on all levels! How can a
qualified professional architectural engineer allow this to happen, It's
totally against logic, and let alone the architectural professionalism.
And with a simple calculating, you can realize that all the money
(5)which
has been used for the restoration works in the last few years, and the
money they are talking about it now for the current restorations, are more
than enough to build one new building as big as Al-motsarfiya, At least!
Besides, all public departments using the building, has deformed it
big deal, by re-dividing the rooms in order to get more offices, and
transforming other rooms to bathrooms and stuff. Also there was so much
apathy, when they dealt with the building to add air conditioning
machines, which resulted in a big deforming to the appearance of the
building. Not to mention the striking deforming caused by the three doors
next to the gate of the military unit.


And the fact that there are no one department is responsible for the whole
building, by dividing it to many separated parts, each part used by an
independent department that has nothing to do with other departments using
the building, Puts the building at a big risk, cause there's no one
responsible for any damages might be caused by the departments using the
building.
And if the
situation remains the same at Al-motsarfiya building, I'm afraid it'll not
be too long before we loose this remarkable building, the symbol of our
city. Unless those who might concern, have another point of view about
this! In other words; you, me and the others. All the people who are
concerned about the common good, anybody who the word "home" matters to
him at anyway!
Recommendations
In order to maintain and keep this building in a good shape for the
generations to come, we recommend that it must be evacuated from all
departments, and transforming it into a Museum.>
Why a museum namely?!
Well, first it's about time for us here in Ajdabiya to get our own museum
like all the people. That's for one reason…
Second reason is that we are in Ajdabiya, have a set of important
monuments and fossils, located in some Libyan museums because there are no
museum for them in Ajdabiya.
Did you know that; it has been found in the Sahabi area south of Ajdabiya,
a fossil for a skull of an elephant belongs to millions of years ago, and
that it has been found in the same area another fossil for a complete
skeleton of a titanic whale that belongs to 25 million years ago, and did
you know that these fossils located now in the Geology section at Al-saraya
museum at Tripoli?(6)
These fossils are visited by scientists from all around the world, so why
can't we bring them back to there original place, and let the city
benefits financially by putting it on the tourists list?!
As you all know tourists who come to Libya every year doesn't know
Ajdabiya, and in the best cases they would make it a transit spot to the
great Libyan south, or the magnificent east! Checkout what name this tourist website gave it to our city.
Don't you think now that the request of transforming Al-motsarfiya into a
museum is a fair case, comes in the perfect timing ?!
And let me make it clear
here, that no body else- other than us, the Ajdabiyans- would care enough
to make such a thing happening. Nobody will care about this other than us,
the Ajdabiyans who care about Ajdabiya and its name. And I'm hereby to
suggest a practical step forward, that we sign a petition and present it
to the Sha'abiya, demanding it to take its actions to transform Al-motsarfiya
into a museum. We should work hard to gather as much signatures to this
petition as possible… I also suggest that this campaign- Ajdabiya's museum
campaign be sponsored by the weekly newspaper Akhbar Ajdabiya.
So are you
ready ?! are you ready to stand up for your city, " city of
intellectuals"! will the intellectuals, make a practical step forward for
their city? Only then, Ajdabiya will be with deeds not words; The city
of intellectuals (7).
Have a good day
everybody,
Youcef Marzooq Youcef.
Special Thanks To: my colleague, Kuno Gross (
Switzerland )
Endnotes:
(1) Mustafa Assieti, Ajdabiya the city of sun, Al bayan publishers
2002. Benghazi, Libya.
(2) Marsch Und Kampf, Des Deutschen AfrikaKorps 1941.
(3) It's a special kind of elections, based on the ideology of Libyan
state, found in Col.Qadhafi's Green Book.
(4) every about 4 years, a new local authority is being selected, each
public sector has a committee to manage it, and every committee has a top
manager called (Ameen). So education sector has its own Ameen and so
forth.
(5) we had all the details about these amounts of money in numbers, but we
decided not to publish it here, but it's available for everybody from its
official sources.
(6) Masoud Ramadan Shaqloof, Ajdabiya it's history and monuments. 1981.
(7) City of intellectuals, is a name was given to Ajdabiya by the
Libyan press in the decade of the Seventies of the last century.

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